All about Peak Mera 6470 (Mera Peak) climbing expedition 2020, 2021
Climbing Mera peak, or Peak Mera, the highest trekking peak in Nepal, is a gateway to high-altitude mountaineering, a great opportunity to try yourself for the first time at an altitude that exceeds 6000 meters. The height of the peak Mera as much as 6470 meters
High-altitude mountaineering! It attracts many with fantastic views and heroic books and films, which can now be read and seen by hundreds on the Internet.
Many people who accidentally (or not accidentally) watched a movie or read a heroic post, if they have financial and physical capabilities, have a desire to try themselves in this amazing sport, or rather, a way of life. Of course, you need to start only under the guidance of an experienced guide and climber who is very well versed in the issue, and it is he who will be responsible for the lives of his clients. If you rely on chance or resort to the services of guides without proper experience, a beautiful fairy tale can turn into a nightmare in an instant with the scenario " Where the wave will take you»
Climbing This peak is not technically difficult, but it requires you to be in good physical shape and endurance. This Mountain, like Elbrus, is very well suited for Your first acquaintance with the height. If you read on other sites that Mera peak can't be chosen as the first big Mountain, don't believe it. In General, many companies have very low quality high-altitude guides. They can hardly control themselves at this altitude. Well, to lead a client on a leash, often drag him on a short rope to the Top, beyond their capabilities. Well, for our guys, this is a common thing, not only at the peak of Mera, but also on the Tops of much higher ones. So do not hesitate to trust your life to professionals.
From the top of Mera Peak (Peak Mera), you can get a great view of 5 of the 6 highest peaks in the world: Everest (8848 m), Kanchenjunga (8586 m), Lhotse (8516 m), Makalu (8485 m), Cho Oyu (8201 m).
I want to tell you how the ascent of the Mera Peak (Mera peak) takes place in our company. The ascent of Mera Peak in our program is not only an ascent, but also a school of mountaineering. During the 16 days of our tour, each participant will receive mountaineering knowledge and skills at the initial level.
As I have already said, the ascent of Mera Peak is the first serious ascent in many people's lives. Therefore, we conduct it at the highest possible level of comfort in order to ensure that the participant does not receive additional stress from the aggressive environment, and can focus on the ascent as much as possible.
The path to the top of Mera passes through the wild and little-traveled trails of the Makalu-Barun national Park. The slopes of the mountains in the lower parts and on the approaches are covered with wild and lush Himalayan vegetation. Yes, there are also tourists here, but they are mostly the same climbers as you and I-whose goal is to Mera peak. They are dozens, if not hundreds of times less than on the classic track to Everest. Climbing Mera peak is interesting not only for the Summit and views from it, but also for the tracking part.
Our program is designed so that you get the optimal acclimatization and by the time of the Summit push the body is used to the height. On the way to the Base Camp, we will cross the Chetar - La pass, which is 4800 meters above sea level. It is this pass with a deep descent into the river valley that gives us a stable base for a successful ascent of Mera Peak (Mera Peak). We will storm the peak Mera (Mera peak) Central peak, 6461 m high. The program includes two reserve days in case of bad weather, which significantly increases the chances of a successful ascent.
Our not virtual introduction starts at the international airport Tribhuwan. We personally-I, Dorchy or our Manager Pass Dickie meet You at the airport with the logo of our company. The transfer can be individual, or it can be a group, if you suddenly arrive at the same time with one of the participants. It takes about 20-30 minutes to get from the airport to the tourist center of Thamel, where our hotel is located. Our groups stay in a comfortable hotel decorated in the local national style. The rooms are equipped with hot and cold water, air conditioning, and water glasses. Participants of the "Full Service" program have accommodation for 2 people in a room. VIP program participants have accommodation in VIP rooms, single accommodation. The package Price includes 2 nights in a hotel.
The next day we have an early check-out. We are going to Paplu or Ramechap airport to fly from there to Lukla, a private transport company. Only expedition participants and accompanying guides are allowed in a jeep or minibus. The decision where we will fly from is made about a month before the start of the expedition, depending on the flight schedule.
Airport Tribhuvan domestic flights at this time are not performed in connection with overload of the runway.
Flight to Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu, transfer from Kathmandu-Ramechap-Kathmandu, as well as all permits and state fees are included in the tour price.
We fly to Lukla the same morning. Upon arrival in Lukla, we have Breakfast, change clothes and start our trekking to Mera Peak (Mera Peak). Each participant can give exactly 15 kg of their cargo to the porters. This service, unlike other companies, is included in the price of the tour. We are well aware that it is not realistic for anyone, even a trained person, to carry this load and then climb to the Summit of Mera. And since our tour is called "climbing Mera peak", and not "hanging out at shelters on the way to Mera peak", it is in this regard that we have included all the services necessary to reach the Top in the tour package. And the tour we have only happens this way and in a different way.
And so, on the day of arrival at Lukla, we climb to the Shelter of Catanga. On the way to the base Camp of Mera peak, we must cross the high Chetar - La pass for acclimatization. There is also a lower path for the approach. But it goes through the jungle and does not contribute to acclimatization in any way.
90% OF CLIMBERS WHO USE THE LOWER PATH FOR THE APPROACH DO NOT GO TO THE TOP!!! They only make a profit to the lower shelters, that's all, in General, they participate in the show program "Tour of shelters"»
The next day will be difficult for most of us, but this day will be the Foundation for us when climbing the Mera peak. Today we need to cross the high Chetar-La pass, 4800 meters high, and go down to the other side, to the Hinko valley, to the shelter at 4000 meters high.
The ascent to the pass is short, but very steep. We climb out of the forest into a zone of snow-covered rocks. Then we cross the zig-zag ridge, and finally go down to the shelter. It will be a long day, it will take about 10 walking hours.
The next day we go down to the river through a very beautiful, wild and lush Himalayan forest. Here you can see everything from rhododendron and Himalayan cedar with blue cones to bamboo thickets. We spend the night in the village of Kote in the Lama Lodge shelter in bamboos. This is the best shelter in this village. Here you can take a hot shower and even wash your hair, but the cost of the shower will be covered from Your personal expenses. Hot shower is not included in the price of rooms, and, accordingly, in the package of our tour. But the very accommodation in class shelters is included in the price.
In the morning, after a good night's sleep, we go to the village of Tangna. It is not far to go, and the way is very easy, almost in a straight line. In Tangna, we stay in the loggia of Himalayan Resort for two nights. This is a cool shelter with a mowed lawn where you can sit and drink tea. The next day we go for acclimatization to the observation point 5000 and return to the village.
The next day, we move to the base Camp of Mera PIK, which is called Kare. Our loggia is the highest, at the beginning of the ascent to the moraine of the glacier, the height is about 5000. We'll stay here again for two nights.
The next day, we put on the equipment, or the guides help someone who doesn't know how to use it, and go to classes. This is again a very important day in our journey! On this day we will teach You
1. Yourself to dress crampons
2. wear the harness Yourself, explain what equipment is used and what it is used for
3. we will Teach you how to climb a rope with jumar
4. we will Teach you how to properly re-fasten at the self-insurance station
5. we will Teach you how to descend the rope using a descent device
6. How to stop the fall using the ice axe
7. The movement in the rope-up on the closed glacier.
8. how to cross closed crevasses in a bundle and how to delay the failure of a fellow bundle in a crack
9. Crevasses rescue - how to release the rope stretched under the weight of the partner's body and pull it out of the crack.
10. how not to lose the trigger device when re-running
We will repeat all these exercises until EACH of the participants does everything at a GOOD level. This knowledge in a bad situation can save Your life, so every climber must perform this skill set for 5+
Now you are ready to Summit Push! Dinner and lights out
In the morning, we go to Camp 1 at an altitude of 5800. Our high-altitude guides will set up this camp, and they will prepare our food. There is no cook in camp 1, so the food will be the simplest. These are canned fish and meat, noodle soup, cookies, tea, coffee, juice. The journey from Kare to Camp1 will take about 7-8 hours. For many, this is the first acquaintance with the height and it will not be very easy to give it. We must be mentally prepared for this. We must fight for the Summit!!! "that's our slogan. For every 3 people, 1 guide will be issued. The entire group will be divided into small subgroups based on speed, so as not to interfere with each other. We and all our guides have been to the peak of Mer dozens of times, so even in bad weather, we are perfectly oriented on the Mountain.
And so from 2 to 4 PM, all participants will reach Camp 1. We have lunch and go straight to bed. In the same evening, we go out to the Peak Mera (Mera Peak) Summit Push. The slowest group leaves at 9 PM, the fastest-at 1 am. But because of the different speed of movement, just at the Summit, we all meet. From Camp 1 to the Summit leads a closed glacier with serac, so we move strictly in bundles. Before the Mera Peak Summit is quite steep takeoff on two ropes. We can easily get up with zhumar! We're on Peak Mera Summit! For many, this is the first big Peak and such a great Height! We have all done a lot to be here, so we can now enjoy the victory! We take photos and videos, and then begin the descent down. By lunch, we go down to Camp1, drink a lot of liquid and continue the descent to the Base Camp.
At the Base Camp, we Celebrate the victory!
The next morning we can sleep - now it's only down to the square!
But we have one more push ahead-the return through the Chetar-La pass to Lukla. But after the top of the peak, this is A very feasible task for us. On the way back to Lukla, we live in the same shelters as on the way up. From the Chetar-La pass we can see our Peak again- Peak Mera (Mera Peak)
From Lukla again we fly by plane to Ramechap, from Ramechap we go by minibus to Kathmandu
In Kathmandu, we have one day to explore the city and buy Souvenirs.
And now, the moment of parting comes, we accompany You to the international airport. You go home and we tell You: "See you again!»